In the following piece, the font-sizes and styles vary wildly. I apologize for this, and would hasten to add that Typepad is to blame. Rather than adhere to the time-honored "KISS" (keep it simple, stupid!) philosophy, they've decided to prove that Heisenberg and like-minded thinkers were right on the fucking money. Owing to their "improvements," (i.e., their penchant for fixin' what ain't broke) posting and editing blogs has become a living nightmare. Unless one has the latest version of Microsoft Word, neither Typepad's "lite" or "fulll" editors works worth a shit. I composed this blog in a mere fifteen minutes, but posting it has taken nearly three hours.
God, how I love "planned obsolescence"
But fuck that.
It's been an interesting week here in Green Hell. Tuesday's deluge sent the wife and me scurrying for the shopvac for the second time this year (the eight inches of rainfall reported by the media notwithstanding, we measured a full foot, which is unheard of in Georgia in November – and I wish Guns'n'Roses had a certain tune of theirs shoved straight up their asses, by the way…).
When the monsoon finally let up, we still had the rest of the fall cleanup to attend to in the garden. We've been married for a little over a year now, and have been living together for two, so we've finally developed a smooth routine when it comes to gardening.
Note: Our living arrangement wasn't what it seemed, incidentally. We weren't "shacked up" in the strict sense of the term: I proposed to Mags on May 5, 2007 – a full four months before she moved in with me – and only advanced my timetable because her ex (hereinafter referred to as "Tommy 2x4," for reasons we both know damned good and well. As he's a radiologist, I was shocked to discover that he didn't realize there are less invasive –not to mention less barbaric -- methods of examining the contents of a woman's cranium. And God have mercy on his patients, by the way. I suppose that sometimes, the cure really is worse than the disease… But then again, I'd imagine that the kind of pathetic, mama's boy pussy who strikes women is too overwhelmed by his own insignificance to notice such trivia…) was harassing her. Moreover, some other piece-of-shit skel was stalking her. Since relocating her was preferable to rounding up a few of my bros, hunting the dingbats down, and sending them to the local ICU with concussions and multiple compound fractures (my conscience would have eaten me alive for an entire fifteen or twenty minutes after hosting a "boot party" in their honor), we took the moral and practical high road.
No less unimpeachable an authority than Ayn Rand noted that the moral and the practical were indivisible, so go pound sand if you don't like it.
Fall cleanup isn't my idea of fun, but it's necessary. (Rand was conspicuously silent on the relationship between the necessary and the enjoyable, I note.) Luckily, I'm enough of a canny ol' bastard to exploit the Japanese master/student relationship as ruthlessly as a typical strip-mall sensei. Since Mags is learning the ropes from me, I do the planning and planting, while she attends to most of the grunt work (which, come to think of it, is essentially the way Da and I operated before his illness forced him to give up gardening entirely).
Sadly, though, reality (as is its wont) occasionally sees fit to shit on my riff, thereby fouling this otherwise ideal relationship. Whether by evolution or intelligent design, the male of our mangy species is blessed/cursed with superior upper body strength. (Granted, we can also piss into a long-necked beer bottle without bending our knees, but our physical liabilities still outweigh our assets at times.)
This being the case, the task of leveling cornstalks and okra trunks fell unto my lazy-ass lot.
It's a thankless task, but since there was no way around it, I tried to imagine ways of rendering it less tedious. The answer quickly materialized before me with the overblown vividness of a Tarantino flick. Sprinting almost fast enough to spill my beer, I hauled ass into the basement and emerged with my bokken and a cheap, $50.00 United Cutlery katana I'd purchased during my tofu-eatin'-Buddhist-hippie "kung fu Jones" period. For shits and giggles, I also dug up a Chinese-looking short sword (it more closely resembles a 2' meat cleaver than anything else) and decided to field test 'em on something other than durian and pumpkins.
My wife is very tolerant of my – uh – "quirks," but this time, she seemed to be wondering whether or not I'd gone completely off my rocker. (She did, however, compliment me on my vertical cut, and for keeping the sword level whilst in the jodan no kamae posture. This was especially flattering, coming as it did from a woman who clearly doubted my sanity; and inflated my already oversized ego like the Goodyear Blimp. And yes, I toss around un-translated foreign terms just to piss you off, Gentle Reader. If it was good enough for Montague Summers; it's good enough for me…)
I'm pleased to report that all three weapons performed like Ron Jeremy on Viagra. The katana, in particular, left smooth, clean cuts on even the okra trunks, and I was actually able to take down three eight-footers with a single stroke. I was so pleased with the blade, as a matter of fact; I've decided (somewhat facetiously, I admit) to dub it kami no kama, "the scythe of the gods." (Unfortunately, my technique is anything but divine. I'm still "pitching" my lateral cut, so I suppose it's back to the hacking post/drawing board for Yours Truly.)
Better still; an onerous chore had suddenly become downright enjoyable.
I waded through the cornstalks and the okra patch (visualizing several baw'bags to whom I still owe debts of "gratitude" all the while -- like the forty-seven ronin, I have a long memory when it comes to slights and disservices), and cleared the entire garden in short order. In truth, I was actually disappointed when there was nary a botanical ass left upon which to "get medieval."
I was, however, still pleased as punch with my handiwork.
I turned to my wife, a smug, shit-eatin' grin stuck to my face like chocolate to that of an unsupervised three-year-old.
"How 'bout that, then, darlin'?" says I, with a cocky toss of the head.
"Yer stance is too deep," she chirped in her shrill, broad-voweled Rust Belt accent. "Yer supposed ta be practicin' kenjutsu, not karate."
Resisting the urge to switch from pleased as punch to "Punch and Judy" (I suppose that would be transliterated "Panchu-san to Jūde-san"…;-), I said: "No, ye' nimrod! I meant the swords. They made short work o' them stalks, didn't they?"She concurred that they had, and informed me that she sure as hell wasn't going to pull up the roots. She then suggested that I get my ass in gear and attend to them.
Three days later, I did. (I generally prefer to let my ass idle for a while before getting it in gear. That way, I'm always sure that it's thoroughly warmed up.) We've decided to reconfigure Green Hell Mk II by putting in thirteen four-foot-wide rows of "lasagna" beds. (See Lasgana Gardening by Patricia Lanza.) Toward this end, we've been collecting our neighbors' leaves and grass clippings by the ton – quite literally – and adding them to our plot. After I uprooted the okra and cornstalks, we used them for the bases of the new raised beds.
We've had very good luck with "lasagna gardening" (a logical development of Sir Albert Howard's "Indore method"), and were eager to try it, especially after seeing it in practice at Echo Farms, in Ft. Myers, Florida.
If I'm not mistaken, though, Maggie wants to tell that story, so I'll leave it to her.
It goes without saying that so much hard work builds a hearty appetite. Since we'd accomplished a great deal this week, we deserved a reward of sorts, in my not-so-humble opinion. Therefore, a few special meals were in order. The recipes follow.
Chiles Rellenos
My wife, as I've often noted, is half Mexican. Her culinary tastes are nearly as broad as mine, but she occasionally misses the foods she grew up with. As I'm still hopelessly addicted to fried chicken; pan-fried catfish; collards with hocks; cornbread and beans; and grits with pepper gravy and/or cheese -- among other dishes -- I empathize deeply.
On Friday, she wanted Mexican food, so Mexican food it was. Mags and I being "one flesh" and whatnot, I try my best to prepare meals she'll enjoy. When, as on Friday, she tells me that my cooking tastes like her mother's I consider it the highest possible praise. Chiles rellenos are among her favorites, so I served 'em as appetizers. They're very tasty, and idiot-simple to make; but good chiles rellenos require a bit of work. The results, however, are well worth the effort. You'll need:
2 medium Anaheim, Cubanelle, or poblano chiles per diner
1 cup all purpose flour
water
1/2t cream of tartar
shredded cheese (we prefer a mix of cheddar and Monterey jack, but others will work)
Oil or lard for deep-frying
First, prepare chiles. Skewer them, then grill, broil, or roast over the eye of a gas stove until skins are charred and blistered. Place in a paper bag until cool enough to handle.
While waiting, make the batter.
Mix flour, egg, salt, cream of tartar and just enough water to make a thick, slightly sticky batter. It should be thicker than tempura, but thinner than pancake batter. Set aside.
Hold chiles under running water and rub off the skins. Make a lengthwise incision along ¾ of each pepper's length, leaving the ends intact. Rinse out seeds and de-vein. Pat dry with paper towels and stuff with cheese. Close slits and secure with toothpicks.
In a skillet or wok, heat 1" of oil or lard to 350° F. Dip chiles in batter, add to oil, and fry until golden brown, turning evenly. Drain on paper towels, remove toothpicks, and serve warm.
Note: I'd advise letting them cool for a moment before biting into one. The filling remains hot for some time after cooking. Two words for you, Gentle Reader: "Chicken Kiev." Get the picture?
Refried Beans
Another of my wife's favorites. She went "ga-ga" over this version.
1 can pinto beans, with liquid
1 medium white onion, chopped3 cloves garlic, minced
3T lard or olive oil
2 jalapeño or Serrano chiles; roasted, peeled, seeded, de-veined and minced.
¼ to ½ t cayenne, or to taste
1 bay leaf
¼ to ½ t cumin, or to taste
1 medium tomato, blanched, peeled, seeded and chopped
salt to taste
Heat lard or olive oil to medium-high. Add onions, chiles, tomato, and half the garlic. Reduce heat to medium, and sauté until onions are soft and translucent. Add remaining ingredients except salt, reduce heat to medium-low, and simmer for 30-40 minutes, until beans are tender and liquid thickens. Coarsely mash, remove bay leaf, add salt to taste, and serve warm.
Excellent with fresh corn tortillas, or for filling burritos.
Note: When cooking beans or other legumes, always add salt last; otherwise, the skins will toughen.
The wife and I love Mexican food in general, and ground or shredded meat dishes in particular. We wanted to do something tasty with the leftovers we had on hand, so a hash of sorts suggested itself. As we were cooking Mexican that night, I thought of picadillo – but neither of us is very fond of cloves or cinnamon, except in certain curries.
I solved the problem with good ol' 'Merkin ingenuity, taking the best of both worlds. This dish required a good deal of work, but the results justified it. It is, of course, possible to streamline the recipe and make a comparable entree in much less time, but in this case, the extra "elbow grease" paid dividends. Give this one a try, Gentle Reader. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised with what you can do with ground beef and leftover French fries.
1 lb. ground beef
1 ½ - 2 cups leftover French fries, tater tots, etc, chopped
1 green pepper, chopped
1 bay leaf
½ cup Manzanilla olives, sliced
3 cloves garlic, chopped
1t oregano
2T tomato paste
¼ - ½ cup beef broth
1t ground cumin
½t ground coriander
salt to taste
2T lard or olive oil
1 dried ancho chile
1 dried pasilla chile
1 dried mulato or guajillo chile
First, prepare chiles. Heat an ungreased skillet to medium, and toast chiles, pressing down with a spatula, until crisp and crumbly -- but not burned. Remove and discard seeds and veins, then reduce to powder in a spice grinder or coffee mill -- or with a mortar and pestle. Set aside. Brown ground beef in a skillet or Dutch oven, and drain. Wipe skillet clean, add oil or lard, and fry potatoes until golden and slightly crisp. Remove and set aside. Add onion and half the garlic, and sauté over medium-low heat until onion is soft and translucent. Add tomatoes and remaining garlic. Increase heat to medium, and stir in beef, three tablespoons of the ground chiles, bay leaf, oregano, cumin, coriander, and tomato paste. Add just enough beef broth to blend tomato paste with other ingredients. Heat to boiling, reduce heat to low, and simmer 30 minutes. Stir in potatoes, olives, and green pepper, and cook for five minutes, until peppers are crisp-tender. Add salt to taste, remove bay leaf, and serve piping hot.
"…In Their Huffery, Snuffery, Heathen Chinese…"
(With apologies to T.S. Eliot.)
It's said that man does not live by bread alone. I'm in complete agreement with the assertion, and would hasten to add that neither does he live by tortillas or empanadas alone. After our South-of-the-Border feast, Maggie and I still found ourselves saddled with leftovers. Chiefest among them was a large hunk of broiled salmon, which we certainly didn't want going to waste. Polishing it off proved as simple as it was enjoyable: I made a modified version of the Japanese classic, ochazuke. This recipe serves three, although the quantities can be increased or reduced as necessary.
1 lb cooked salmon
1 cup cooked rice
3 sprigs mitsuba (see notes) or a scant handful of baby spinach leaves
1 pinch shredded nori per serving
3 cups water
1t dashi no moto (see notes)
1T soy sauce, or to taste
2 bags green tea
2-3t mirin (see notes)
Toasted sesame seed oil (optional)
Put 1/3 cup cooked rice into each of three bowls. Add 1/3 lb. cooked salmon, broken into bite-sized pieces. Shred spinach leaves (if using) and divide evenly, or add a sprig of mitsuba to each bowl. Garnish each with a pinch of shredded nori. Bring water, soy sauce, dashi no moto, mirin and teabags to a rolling boil. Remove from heat, steep for two minutes, then remove teabags. Reheat broth to boiling, and pour 1 cup into each bowl. Add one drop of sesame oil to each, and serve.
Notes: This dish was meant to be a quick solution to a fridge full of leftovers. As such, it's a, "down and dirty," no-frills offering. Should the Gentle Reader have the time and/or inclination, he/she can make a much better broth as per the instructions below.
Before I give them, though, I'd like to address a pet peeve of my wife's daughter, Elizabeth. Back in '07, she and her husband were having dinner with Mags and me, in a ridiculously overpriced restaurant on the outskirts of Charlotte, NC. At one point during the sometimes-awkward conversation (God bless the gent who invented beer…), Maggie mentioned the cookbook, prompting Elizabeth to complain that many cookbooks list odd ingredients – but neither describe them nor offer any clues as to how/where to obtain them. Admittedly, she and I have had our disagreements in the past – and will probably have more in the future -- but her grievance was legitimate.
For this reason, I've chosen to address it. Mitsuba is simply Japanese trefoil. The taste is difficult to describe – slightly bitter, with a grassy aroma -- but as many Japanese dishes owe their success to "hidden flavors," the soup really isn't the same without it.
Mitsuba is very inexpensive ($0.99 a bunch), and is available in the produce department of any well-stocked oriental grocery.
Dashi no moto is best described as Japanese fish bouillon. The tiny granules dissolve almost immediately when added to water, and impart a delicate, subtly smoky seafood flavor to broths. My favorite brand is Ajinomoto's Hon Dashi®, but there are others on the market. It's available at any oriental grocery, but some supermarket chains (Kroger and Whole Foods, for example) carry it, as well.
Nori is the greenish-black algae (laver) used to wrap sushi and sashimi. It's available at all oriental markets, and most supermarkets, as well. One can shred it with a pair of kitchen scissors, or buy it pre-cut in canisters.
Mirin is a very sweet, syrupy rice wine. I use Kikkoman®, but, as with dashi no moto, other brands are available. To my mind, Kikkoman is the perfect compromise between quality and economy. It, too, is available at any reputable oriental grocery, but Kroger, Whole Foods, and other chains also carry it.
Having gotten that out of the way, I'll mention that the best dashi is made as follows: Pour 2 ½ cups of water into a pan and add one 4" strip of konbu (sometimes transliterated "kombu" -- but never mind why. This piece is about cooking, not linguistics. Konbu, incidentally, is dried kelp, and is available at any oriental grocery and many health food stores). Soak for one hour then heat to boiling, uncovered. Remove konbu. Shave or grate 3/8 oz katsuo bushi (dried skipjack tuna – a.k.a. "bonito") or add three 1/8 oz. packets of kezuri bushi (the same product, shaved and prepackaged) to the broth, along with the remaining ½ cup of cold water. I've never seen either product in an American grocery store, for the record (and you sure as hell won't find it at Wal-Mart), but nearly all Asian markets carry them.
Heat to boiling then remove from heat immediately. Strain, and broth is ready to use.
As is my habit, I've saved the best for last. Mags and even Ma Bean were raving over these two, and that's no exaggeration. When I receive praise, I usually conclude that the person lavishing it upon me is blowing smoke and/or sunshine up my ass because he/she wants something from me. Given the state of the world, it's a safe assumption – but eyes and empty plates seldom lie as readily or ably as smiles and tongues. My wife finished her portion last night – and then tried to steal my leftovers this afternoon, so I gather that I really was onto something. As I pulled the recipe out of my ass at the last minute (we had an entire rack of ribs – and a mere three hours left until dinnertime), the warm reception they gave the dish was as surprising as it was gratifying. In addition to the ribs, I served a stir-fried vegetable medley. Both recipes follow.
Barbecued Ribs
1 3lb. rack pork ribs
1t shrimp sauce (see notes)
1T nuoc mam (Vietnamese fish sauce)
2T black bean sauce or hoisin sauce
1T dark soy sauce (optional)
1t hot bean paste
½ cup tomato catsup
2T tamarind water (see notes)
2T corn syrup
2T brown sugar
1T rice wine
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 small onion or 1 small bunch scallions, minced
1" piece fresh ginger- or galangal root, minced or grated
1 stalk lemongrass, minced (optional)
Toasted sesame seed, to garnish (optional)
Trim excess fat from ribs. Mix all ingredients (except sesame seed) and pour over ribs. Marinate for no fewer than two but no more than twenty-four hours. (I cut the rack into thirds, placed the portions in a stainless steel bowl, and poured the sauce over them. Marinating them in a plastic bag works every bit as well, though.) Heat grill, and when coals are medium-hot (you should be able to hold your hand 3" above the grill surface for three seconds without feeling undue pain), remove ribs from bowl or bag and grill for one hour (or until juices run clear), turning and basting with reserved sauce every five to ten minutes. Garnish with toasted sesame seed and serve.
Notes: Do NOT, for the love of God, use Vietnamese mam tom -- a.k.a. "Vietcong tear gas" or Indonesian trassi for the shrimp paste. The flavor of either is too strong for this dish – and the effects of grilling them are identical to those of blanketing an entire city block with chloropicrin. Use the soft, grayish-pink Chinese version, if you value your life and your relationships with your neighbors. I use Koon Chun Sauce Factory's "Fine Shrimp Sauce," but other brands will do just as well.
Tamarind (Tamarindus indica) resembles a brown, crumbly fava pod, and is available in the produce departments of Asian, Caribbean and Latin American markets. (Processed, prepackaged tamarind pulp can be had from the same sources, although it's more expensive). Upon removing the husk and strings, one finds a mass of sticky, sour pulp surrounding a few small, hard seeds. To make tamarind water, place one tablespoon of tamarind pulp (fresh or pre-packed) in a juice glass and add enough boiling water to cover. When cool, pour into a small bowl, then mash pulp and remove seeds with your fingers.
Stir-Fried Mixed Vegetables
1 carrot, thinly sliced on the diagonal
1 stalk celery or bok choy, thinly sliced on the diagonal (optional)
8-10 shiitake (see note) or oyster mushrooms (or both), sliced
1 onion, peeled and sliced into thin wedges
2 small (3-4") luffas, diagonally sliced ¼" thick
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 standard or 4 baby bell peppers, seeded and cut into rings or strips
2T peanut or vegetable oil
1t sesame oil
1/3 cup rice wine Sauce 1 pinch sugar
2t cornstarch
½ t instant chicken bouillon*
½ cup water*
1t black pepper (preferably freshly ground)
2t soy sauce
2t nuoc mam
1/2t powdered ginger
Salt to taste, if necessary
(* Or ½ cup chicken stock or Chinese "superior broth.")
Mix sauce in a small bowl. Heat oils over medium-high heat in a skillet or wok. When hot – but not smoking – add onions and half of garlic, and stir-fry until fragrant, about thirty seconds.
Add one tablespoon of rice wine, cover and steam for one minute. Stir in carrots, luffas, and bok choy or celery. Add another tablespoon of rice wine, cover, and steam for one minute. Stir in green pepper, mushrooms and remaining rice wine. Stir fry uncovered for one minute, than add sauce and stir-fry until thickened. Serve immediately.
G'night and mangia!