Being part of a narrative in the serial “penny dreadful” style, in which an obsessive-compulsive (and at times, quite unbalanced) Suth’n boy relates some of his more twisted exploits and adventures.
Let’s see, where was I? Oh yeah! Now I remember! It was July of 1989, and I had just completed a circuit consisting of the University of Ottawa, the Public Library, the National Archives and StatsCan, at which point my hopes of becoming the world’s first international stalker were dashed.
That left me with six days worth of free time. At this point, the question I posed to myself was: “How best to spend it?” The idea of sitting around a hotel room with my thumb up my ass didn’t appeal to me overmuch, and I’d be required to vacate my room at the “Y” on the morrow, anyway. Given this, I thought it best to find somewhere else to park my redneck rear for a the remainder of my sojourn.
Upon leaving the “Y“, I was accosted by a young couple ( These days, I call them a “young" couple, but they were roughly the same age as I, actually) who began babbling at me in French. Whereas I can read a bit of said language in a pinch, the spoken language still -- If I may be pardoned for using this expression -- Kommt mir Spanisch vor. Being quite the resourceful bastard (chuckle), and having determined that these folks couldn’t hardly speak no English nohow, I failed the “thin slicing test” completely, and opted to reply auf Deutsch.
“Es tut mir Leid, aber Ich spreche kein Franzosisch. Sprecht ihr Englisch oder Deutsch?”
“English? Did you say ’English’?” said the male half of the duo in a very American accent.
His French had been so good (if I’m qualified to judge these things) that I’d actually mistaken him for a frog.
“Yeah, dude. I said 'English',” I replied.
“Oh! You’re American!”
“Last time I checked…”
As it happened, they were tourists, too, and simply needed directions to some place I can’t remember. As I had my Ottawa-Hull map neatly folded up in my spiffy Brigade Quartermaster map case, I provided ‘em with such useful information as I could, and bade them good day. Pardon the digression (or read something else-- Ye’ think I give a rat’s ass either way?), but it still amazes me to this very day that tourists in general (and American tourists in particular) don’t collect a little more preliminary “intel” before setting out for parts unknown. End digression. I also suspect one Sluggo of cypto-anarcho-patriot sentiments, but I can’t prove it in a court of law, and he wasn’t there anyway, so that has nothing to do with the price of tea in China, the price of China in faggy little Buckhead yuppie roach-motels or much of anything else, so I‘ll drop the matter for the time being.
I’ll also drop my trousers and “moon” you without warning or provocation, so watch out!
Anyway…
Heading back to the YMCA, I made a brief detour and spent a few hours wandering around the Museum of Man and Science, which was directly across the street. I’ll readily admit to being a rather crude, foulmouthed “hayseed”, but I have never been able to resist museums for all my crude, foulmouthed “hayseediness”. I had a look-see at every single exhibit in the building, purchased a few postcards for my buddies, and then made my way to the nearest post office, in order to buy stamps.
The crude, foulmouthed “hayseedy” diatribe to which I subjected the poor clerk on duty upon discovering the exorbitant (perhaps “extortionate” is a better word…) price of Canadian postage stamps (“How much? You gotta be shittin’ me, buddy! I could get a blowjob for less than that!”) might very well have served to cause a deterioration of American/Canadian relations, the likes of which hadn’t been seen since the War of 1812. Fortunately, he was a non-confrontational sort, so nothing came of it.
On the whole, Canadians are an unbelievably civil bunch (as evinced by this gentleman’s shrug, raised eyebrows and “Sorry, I don’t make the rules, I just have to live by ‘em” facial expression), and I quickly gathered that he might very well have found the “fight-at-the-drop-of-a-hat” rage that smolders just beneath the surface of each and every Upper Southern psyche a tad disturbing. As it was his country and not mine, I pissed right off, but not without befouling the pristine Canadian air with some exquisitely “redneck” invective of the “This is fucked-up as a football bat!” variety.
Stomping back to the “Y“, I remembered that I was well into the second day of this foray, and that my poor, long-suffering mother was probably expecting a phone call. Being none too polite to the transients who seemed to throng around the payphones -- without ever actually using the things, mind you -- I made a collect call to her house.
As she’d lost her youngest son not a year before, I should have been less brusque when "checking in," and I admit it. She hadn’t heard from me in two days, and even if I’d only opted to visit our closest neighbor and (at the time) one of the most civilized and civil countries on earth, I was nonetheless technically “abroad” and well beyond her “sphere of influence,” as it were. At the time, I was so self-absorbed and so occupied with licking my own recently acquired psychological wounds that it didn’t occur to me that the pain of a mother who’d lost a son might have been equal to or greater than that of a brother who‘d lost his only sibling. Seventeen years down the road or no, I still feel like an asshole over the way I behaved.
She became very emotional, probably out of sheer gratitude and relief at the sound of my voice, and I, in turn, acted every bit the consummate shithead, snappily informing her that I was right as rain, and that all manner of things were, in fact, well. Hanging up, I returned to my room and hit the phone book and my map.
Having surmised (and quite correctly, as it happened) that the local Holiday Inn, the Inn of the Provinces, the Lord Elgin and a few other hotels were just a wee bit outside my budget, I began looking for something a little closer and a little less expensive. After jotting down a list of likely facilities and making another trip to the lobby, I called around and finally settled on a place called the Somerset House, a few blocks to the north and west.
The next morning, I set out for my new digs. Ottawa is a truly beautiful city, so the walk was pleasant, for the most part. It was a clear and sunny day, and while the weather was comfortably warm, the heat wasn’t nearly as oppressive as that of the Georgia summers to which I’d become accustomed.
As my own purse-strings are often every bit as tight as those of the proverbial Scotsmen from whom I’m descended, I’d opted to save a few bucks by not calling a cab. The mild weather notwithstanding, I was sweating like a whore in church and cussing like a sailor by the time I reached my destination, some seven or eight blocks to the north and an additional block or two to the west. That particular experience motivated me to abandon suitcases and switch to a duffel bag with shoulder straps, a practice to which I still adhere, for the most part.
The good folk at the Somerset House were very accommodating, allowing me to check in early, so after doing so, I lugged my suitcase up to my new room and unceremoniously dumped it off, subjecting it to some especially choice profanity as I did so. I then took stock of my surroundings. It wasn’t a bad little hotel, all in all. I’ve stayed in better places, but I’ve stayed in a lot worse, as well. The room was clean as, more importantly, were the sheets on the bed. Always a “plus,” as in the course of my wanderings over the years, I’ve encountered places (one right here in Atlanta) in which clean sheets actually cost extra. The less said about that, though, the better.
My room was on the second floor of the hotel, and while somewhat Spartan (there was a washbasin on the wall, but few other amenities), couldn’t have been beaten, price-wise. The communal bathroom was down the corridor, but as I’d become accustomed to such arrangements while living in Europe as a boy, the fact didn’t bother me. Besides, the cost of the room came out to a mere twenty dollars (Canadian) a night or thereabout, so the price was definitely right. Back in the lower forty-eight, twenty bucks a night would get one a room in a real “roach motel” or “shooting gallery,” but that was about it.
As a bonus of sorts, there was a restaurant/bar on the ground floor of the building (the baked trout served in said facility was particularly good, as I recall), so I had everything I needed (except, perhaps, a competent psychoanalyst) right there at my fingertips. As the room was much “homier” than the one at the Y, and as travel tends to wear me out, I lay down on the bed -- just for a second, I told myself -- and ended up taking quite a long nap. I awoke feeling considerably more “grounded,” and took stock of my situation.
All that remained was to figure out how to kill the next few days of my vacation.
As my slightly insane project had fizzled out on day one, staying occupied was my top priority. I don’t handle boredom gracefully, and as I was a considerable distance from home, my usual approaches to assuaging ennui seemed -- uhm -- “inadvisable,” at best. While I was mulling this over, it occurred to me that I hadn’t eaten much of anything in nearly two days, and that I was actually very hungry. It also occurred to me that I could use a beer.
There was a small grocery store not far from the hotel, so I moseyed on in and purchased some junk food, a bag of peanuts, as I recall. Searching the store from top to bottom, I quickly realized that there wasn’t a beer to be had in the entire place. Feeling like an idiot, I asked the clerk at the cash register where the beer was kept. Looking at me as if I were a mongoloid cretin with a booger dangling from one of my nostrils, he told me that they didn’t sell beer.
Canada sucks! I thought, as I left the place. All that “Doug and Bob McKenzie” stuff was complete bullshit after all! Man, I thought some of the dry counties in Georgia were bad, but it seems I’ve stumbled into a “dry country”. Returning to my hotel, I asked the desk clerk: “What does a guy have to do to get a beer around here?” He gave me an odd look, so I related my sad discovery to him. At that point, he informed me that beer had to be purchased from a specially licensed facility, and gave me directions to the nearest one.
OK, that made sense. I’d seen similar arrangements in Europe. Even in Georgia, grocery stores were limited to selling beer and wine, while hard liquor had to be bought at licensed package stores. I thanked him, moseyed on over to the facility and got myself a much-needed sixpack. I’d heard about Canadian beer and was anxious to try it, but to my consternation and puzzlement, American brands were actually cheaper. How an “import” (even one that wasn’t much to write home about) could be less expensive than a domestically produced brew was lost on me.
The price of even the cheap stuff seemed extortionate, (“You gotta be shittin‘ me! Why so much? Do y’all bottle this-here horse piss at the friggin’ fountain of youth or something?”), but I was informed that upon returning the bottles, I’d get a good bit of my money back. Thus mollified (if only slightly), I headed back to my room with “The King of Beers” in hand. Great. Just great. I fly all the way to Canada, and I’m drinking friggin’ Budweiser…
Still feeling like a bit of a shitheel, I cracked open a beer, got on the phone and tried to smooth things over with my mom, apologizing for having been so curt when last I had spoken with her. She seemed to be in a much better mood when I hung up, which was a relief, as my conscience had kicked in by then, and was really doing a number on me. With all she’d endured over the last few months, she certainly didn’t need me making things worse by acting like a complete prick. I spent the remainder of the evening killing off the sixpack and staring out the window, watching the “street life,” such as it was. When imbibing, I tend to think some very odd thoughts, and while watching the flow of humanity moving up and down the sidewalk beneath my window, it struck me that something just didn’t feel right. I couldn’t put my finger on it, but there was definitely something wrong with the picture. Finally, I realized what it was.
I was in the heart of a fairly major city, and yet everyone I saw was White. Having lived in Atlanta for the past five years, and having spent so much time hanging out in the downtown area, Chamblee and Doraville, I’d become so accustomed to seeing people of other races that I took their presence as a given. This place looked like Minnesota or Vermont, for the love of God! It was actually weird, as even in Germany I’d become accustomed to the sight of Turks and other Middle-Easterners. Having solved the puzzle, I concentrated upon “people watching” and polishing off my beer. Upon completing said task, I smoked one or two cigarettes more, placed my “punk jabber” on the nightstand, and went to bed.
As I’ve said, Ottawa is a lovely town, so I decided to get out and see more thereof. Over the next few days, I visited the National Library and Public Archives, the War Museum, The Currency Museum, the National Gallery, and the Halls of Parliament.
On the grounds of the last site mentioned, I wandered around a bit, had a look at the locks on the Rideau Canal, and took a very nice photo of the Canadian Museum of Civilization, in Hull, across the Ottawa River. I still have it, and I’m still very proud of it, actually. For some years, I was a semi-fanatical “shutterbug”, and the shot of the museum is one of the best I’ve ever taken.
As I sat down in the shade of a tree for a rest and a smoke, I noticed an immense black rat staring at me. The rat was actually clinging to the tree, about three feet off the ground, peering at me from around the curve of the trunk. My cigarette dropped from my lips as I regarded the critter with a mixture of fascination and horror.
It must have wandered up from the river! But I’d never seen rats climb trees before! Perhaps this was some as-yet undiscovered species! For a moment, I looked around for a rock to throw at it, but quickly remembered where I was. Next, moving very slowly (and praying that the thing wasn’t rabid), I advanced the film in my camera and lined up my shot. The world was about to be introduced to Rattus beanus, the Canadian Tree-Climbing Rat.
And then the damned thing rounded the trunk of the tree, revealing a large, bushy tail.
It was a squirrel. Nothing but a squirrel. As I’d spent most of my life in the Southeastern United States and in Europe, I’d taken it as a given that squirrels were either grey or red. This one was coal-black. At first, I thought it might be some freak of nature, so snapped a few shots of it anyway, as it leaped to the ground, picked up a nut of some sort and began stuffing its cheek-pouches. Then I took a look around me, and noticed that there were a few more squirrels in the trees, and that all of ‘em were black. So much for turning the world of zoology upside down. The photo is another I still have, though, as black squirrels were such a complete novelty to me.
By this time I was getting hungry, so I looked around for a suitable eatery, and found that it’s nearly impossible to starve in Ottawa. The city was home to numerous restaurants of various grades, and to plenty of street vendors as well. The “dog carts” in Ottawa were far cleaner than those found in Atlanta, and also offered a more varied bill of fare, a definite “plus.” For the next few days, I made a habit of buying lunch from them, as I could have not only “jes’ plain” hotdogs, but Bratwurst, Knackwurst, and Kielbasa, as well, with a wonderful selection of toppings.
For all that most of these vendors seemed to be immigrants from Eastern Europe (and therefore probably KGB “sleepers,” to my mind), I found the experience of eating -- for the first time in years -- real Bratwurst, prepared to my satisfaction (which is to say: Enhanced with a squeeze of hot mustard and smothered in Sauerkraut and banana pepper rings) so nearly orgasmic as to temporarily quench my white-hot hatred of Ivan and his minions whenever I partook of one.
Another feature of Canadian street-dining that impressed me consisted of what I’ll call “burger buses,” for lack of a better term. In Ottawa, the hungry traveler often found small buses outfitted with kitchens. These buses -- one side furnished with a panel that raised or lowered and served as a built-in awning -- cruised the streets looking for business. Upon finding a likely spot, the driver raised the awning and awaited the lunch-hour stampede of famished “working stiffs” (and in this case, Ridgerunner tourists).
The vittles provided by these “greasy spoons on wheels” -- while unlikely to inspire a classically trained Cantonese chef to toss his wok and utensils into the Si Kiang and beg any given driver/cook to take him on as a student -- weren’t bad by any stretch of the imagination. I’d rate them more highly than McDonald’s or Burger King, and perhaps even slightly above Wendy’s in those days.
I ate at a few other fast food joints while I was there, and can’t say they were much different from those in the states, save for the facts that the overall quality of the fare was higher, one could actually obtain tolerable fish and chips at a few of them, and that Canadians really overdo the vinegar and mayonnaise at times.
Another pleasant experience was had at a little breakfast joint I found. At the time, I tended not to eat before 11:00 or so, but one morning, I came down with a case of the munchies and set out in search of something with which to stuff my craw. It’s been quite a long time, so I can’t remember the eatery’s exact location, but I did have to walk north a ways from Somerset. Not too far, mind you. I’m thinking it was between Laurier and Sparks, but as I was {{blush}} a tad bit hung over at the time, I can’t recall where it was situated with any degree of acuity.
The place interested me because it served people from all social classes. No single group or socio-economic stratum seemed dominant. I noticed the Canadian version of yuppies, the older, more refined “Old Money”-types, hard-hatted construction workers and “Bohemian”-types all breaking bread in peace and quiet. For the record, these groups didn’t interact with one another as far as I could tell, but some of the overt hostility one might observe in my neck of the woods -- the hard-eyed stares and “Oh shit! I think we’re in the wrong bar/diner/garage/grocery store!” looks of horrified recognition were conspicuously absent.
Perhaps Canadians (in those days) were better able to understand and accept inherent differences in individual capabilities and endowments. Or perhaps they were just wussies. I still haven’t figured it out.
While I was making these observations and trying to analyze the social dynamic, my stomach was growling like a tired, old tomcat confronted with a playful but ill-mannered puppy, so I done well and rightly ordered me some eats. As I’d seen a Canadian grocery store or two, I knew that grits were not only unavailable in these parts, but completely unheard-of, as well. Perhaps a tiny but sharp stab of homesickness led me to order toast as my carb source, but I didn’t ask -- and still don’t know -- what manner of grain-based gruel Canadians use to fuel themselves. Oatmeal? Cream of Wheat? Boiled, sweetened barley? As I’ve said, I still have no idea.
I did find, though, that for all the differences that exist between the two, Canadian and American breakfast foods aren’t irreconcilably divided. Like the British, my own Countrymen, (and even Koreans: I‘ll rant and rave about the endorphin-rush-inducing culinary “enlightenment” experienced by a certain Suth’ ne’er-do-well upon first tasting kongnamul kuk bap in a future post) Canadians eat real breakfasts; breakfasts that “stick ta yer ribs.”
I’ve remarked in the past that eating breakfast in Britain (for all that most British food sucks) was a
“vacation in Paradise,” compared to the experience of shoveling down the shit placed before me when vacationing on the continent. Eggs! Ham! Bacon! Fried tomatoes! Joy!
Lord have mercy! The stuff we were served elsewhere? An over-baked roll with a pat of butter and some jam or jelly. A-bdeeah, a-bdeeah, a-bdeeah, that’s all, folks! What the hell kind of way to begin the day is that? Britain, however was different, as was Canada. The latter country seemed to have adopted the best of the British and American traditions, and for all that I’d have been glad for sausage, biscuits, pepper gravy and whatnot, I enjoyed my meal.
At this particular eatery, I had no trouble ordering eggs fried “over easy,” yet another definite "plus," as that‘s the way I like ‘em. Unlike the Brits, our northern cousins understand that one need not resort to scrambling or boiling when cooking them, that there are nearly as many ways to cook an egg as to skin a cat. I also had toast (pretty much the same everywhere), my first taste of Canadian bacon, which is quite different from our own -- more like some sort of ham or gammon than what I‘d think of as bacon. Ours is more like the “streaky bacon” the British slice into “rashers”. Differences in terminology aside, it was very good., and I tucked into it with relish. Having stuffed my craw with a real breakfast, I then hit the streets again, looking for mischief -- uh, make that fun. Yeah, that‘s it. Fun.
As I was actually feeling somewhat -- how to put this delicately? -- “stimulated” for the first time in months, I decided to check the Yellow Pages and see what I could find by way of suitable entertainment. Cursory examination revealed that there was no shortage of either “exotic” dance clubs or “escort services” in Ottawa, but (in a rare moment of lucidity), I questioned the wisdom of getting hammered in a Canadian titty bar and/or hiring an “escort” in my admittedly precarious emotional state.
It began raining shortly after I’d finished my breakfast, so I brushed aside all thoughts of hookers and strippers and beer (Oh, my!) and took refuge in the Public Library, before returning to my room. After making a few telephone calls, I’d determined which banks gave the best exchange rate, so I made it a point to mosey over to the best of the best and change some more money. The teller was a very friendly young lady, who, noticing that I was a smoker, offered me a Canadian cigarette for some reason or the other, perhaps for the sake of comparison. I didn’t notice much difference between American and Canadian stogies, for the record, but it struck me as a friendly gesture. I probably should have asked for her phone number, but as I was only in town for a few days, there seemed to be little point in so doing.
As I left, it occurred to me that my own carton would run out eventually, and that I might as well find a source of nicotine. This led to my next rude awakening. I found a tobacconist and nearly fell over backwards upon discovering the price a deck of smokes fetched in the Great White North. They were nearly five bucks a pack. Even with the Canadian dollar being worth only eighty cents US or thereabout at the time, the price was still extortionate, and nearly four times what I’d pay for generics back home.
After a few more hours spent wandering around the city, I went back to my room and took a nap. Awakening just before dusk, I decided to take a stroll and have a look at the nightlife. For reasons pertaining to visibility, I often favor dark clothing, and for this reason, I pulled on a black BDU jacket, dropped my polycarbonate “punk jabber” into one pocket and went out for one of the long walks I‘d become accustomed to taking. I was out and about for quite a while, and must have walked around every block in an area bounded by Lisgar and Gilmour to the north and south, and Bank and Bronson Avenue to the east and west. This time, I just allowed the “sensory flood” of which I’ve complained earlier to wash over me without resisting it.
For some reason, one image in particular has remained with me to this day. It is that of a girl of perhaps my own age at the time. She was wearing a red-and-white striped shirt, had long, dark, wavy hair, and was leaning out a second-story window, just “watching the world go by,” as I suppose. Not sure why I remember that with such clarity, but I do. Perhaps it was the way the light of the setting sun threatened to paint the stripes on her shirt out of existence, or the way it tinted her hair, but she seemed very beautiful, and almost mysterious. I suppose that’s why I recall the incident so clearly after all these years.
Night fell as I performed my “reconnaissance,” if you will, and I found the darkness oddly comforting. I played a few games, slipping in and out of the shadows as I saw or heard other pedestrians approaching, but soon tired of them and returned to the hotel. As I made my way back, an unpleasant thought -- which I quickly shooed away -- came to me. I was carrying my synthetic dagger as protection against psychos and “skels,” but in this neighborhood, I myself was probably the closest to either I was likely to encounter. This was very different from Atlanta, to say the least.
A thought that sobering demanded that I wash it away with something a good bit less sobering, so I decided to give the hotel bar a try. It was a very cozy little place, and the barkeeps were extremely friendly. I tried my first LaBatt’s Blue and fell in love with the stuff upon taking my first sip. As I put ‘em away, a “character” entered the bar and sat down beside me. I gave him an “Evenin’, bud” and a quick once-over. His hair was uncombed, and his cheeks unshaven. For all that it had stopped raining some hours ago, he was wearing a raincoat, and not a very clean rain coat, either.
Canada, it appears, has its share of transients who live in cheap hotels, just as does the US. This gent appeared to be one of them. He began talking animatedly if bitterly, this bum, and I immediately noticed a trait characteristic of the breed, a weird combination of chattiness and hostility. I didn’t know Marc MacYoung at the time, and wouldn’t have employed these terms in those days, but this gent would perhaps best be classified midway between “creepy crawly” and “walking wounded”. My encounter with him was one my earliest experiences as a “freak magnet,” and this alone made the occasion memorable.
For all that he was Canadian, he claimed to have served in the US Army during the Vietnam War, and courtesy dictated that I take him at his word, at least to appearances. He was certainly “off” enough to have done as he claimed -- he might as well have had the letters PTSD tattooed on his face -- but this was 1989, after all. In those days, every whacko out there claimed to be a “Vietnam vet,” and I’d actually met a few men not ten years older than myself who claimed to have served in “the ‘Nam,” so by that time, I was learning to take such assertions with a large grain of salt.
Eventually, he became unbearably obnoxious, and the bartender rather sharply told him to pay up and make tracks. As she called him by name, I gathered that this wasn’t exactly a rare occurrence. I spent a few minutes making small talk with her. Eventually, other patrons began seating themselves around the bar. As I engaged in meaningless chatter with the barkeep, a very cheery and almost stereotypically Canadian voice chirped: “So, where’s the accent from, eh?”
I about died laughing. These folks were the ones who talked funny, and yet I was being questioned about my accent. “Georgia,” I said, as I turned to have a look at the questioner. It was a cute, petite Canadian girl wearing (for lack of a better word) a “nerdy” pair of glasses and -- if I recall correctly; I’d had a few beers by then -- a short, white dress with some sort of repeating pattern in blue printed on the fabric.
We began chatting over quiet a few subjects, most of which I can’t recall, (although I do remember having to bite back on a bit of irritation when the health-care systems of our two countries were compared; I‘m not a fan of socialized medicine or socialized anything, for that matter). During the course of the conversation, she introduced me to a few of what I gathered were the “regulars”: a guy from Ireland; a guy from Scotland; and a Canadian graphic artist, who seemed to regard me with some suspicion. In retrospect, I gather that he had the hots for this gal, and resented the attention she was paying me. That, however, is pure speculation on my part.
And that’s where I’m gonna have to leave you for now, gentle reader. Time to go earn a living.