I don't imagine I'll ever make a poet of my wife -- she's simply too blunt-spoken.
My mother's arthritis has been unusually severe, so Mags and I made an emergency trip out to Doraville yesterday, to purchase hawthorn berries, longan, jujubes and rice wine. It was our second trip to Buford Highway in three days, and although I hate burning that much gas in a single week, there was no way around it: Ma was in pain.
Acupressure has relieved her symptoms appreciably (she was able to get back to sleep last night after hitting the points I showed her), but I thought something stronger was in order. In the last year, I've developed considerable respect and admiration for Henry C. Lu's work (his book, Chinese Natural Cures is one of the best I've read), so I decided to try yet another oddball Chinese remedy, hawthorn wine.
On the way to Doraville, the wife mentioned a few ailments of her own. We've finally knocked out the hot flashes, dizzy spells, etc., and are making progress against the insomnia, but there's still quite a bit of work to do. Unfortunately, treating Maggie is like trying to shove a wet noodle up a cat's ass -- it's damn near impossible, even on a good day. Most of her complaints are easily treatable, but she's like a child when it comes to taking medicines, whether traditional or modern.
"Honey, " I said, mildly exasperated, "every time I whip up a batch of whatever, you tell me it tastes 'gross.' "
"Well, you just like making me eat gross stuff."
"That's bullshit and you know it, dear. Besides, I never know what you're gonna consider 'gross,' and I think most of it's in your mind, anyway. Remember when I cooked that soup with the white fungus?"
She made a face, to which I replied "Ah, but the taste and texture aren't that different from black fungus ('wood ears,' 'tree ears,' or 'cloud ears'), and you ate that."
"I did not!"
"You certainly did. Every time I make hot-and-sour soup, you're eating wood ears."
"Oh. Well, they're cut up small. I can't tell what they are."
I could see that the coversation was going nowhere, so I concentrated on surviving the trip down GA-400 and I-285. After a near collision with an idiot on a cellphone (let me get this straight: It's cloudy, rainy, the pavement is wet, the traffic on 285 is usually bumper-to-bumper -- but moving at eighty miles an hour, nonetheless -- and you're gonna distract yourself by yakking on a cell-phone? There's a well-deserved "Darwin Award" in your future, asshole....) we finally reached the market. By that time, I needed the hawthorn berries for my own blood pressure... Locating the items we needed was no problem, so we were soon on our way home.
Now two days ago, I'd picked up a few things at the same market for dinner (spring rolls and a stir-fry with veggies and leftover turkey). Occasionally, I fix a "just for me" treat, but only because my wife and mother don't share my tastes. Toward this end, I also bought a package of hog trotters (they're absolutely wonderful when caramelized with sugar, garlic, soy sauce, nuoc mam, etc.), and a few other "comfort foods."
We'd just reached the car, and were loading our overflowing bags of animal parts (nearly all of which Mags considers 'gross'), herbs, spices, veggies and fruits (including carambolas, pomegranates and a fair-sized pomelo) into the trunk, when she observed (for the millionth time): "Honey, you eat some weird shit."
For the record, I take exception to the term "weird" -- and to "shit," as well. I don't think my diet's "weird" at all -- it's just eclectic. (This reminds me of my favorite T-shirt, by the way. It reads: "In some cultures, my behavior would be considered normal.") I enjoy a broad variety of foods. And if my better half doesn't? Well, she's the one missing out on the fun, not me.
By Western standards, my diet is, admittedly, unusual. In most of the world, though, my eating habits wouldn't even raise an eyebrow. I love sushi and sashimi, nearly all kinds of kimchi, various seaweeds (wakame being my favorite), jellyfish, cephalopods, all shellfish, most organ meats, and quite a few "weird" vegetables -- among them yamaimo, sato imo, rau mong, gai lon, luffas and bitter gourds. I draw the line at sago worms, fish eyes, and terrestrial snails (I'll eat marine snails), but those are the only things that really put me off. When it comes to vegetables, I'll eat nearly anything, and I'm especially fond of Oriental vegetables.
Thanks to companies like Pinetree Garden Seeds and Seeds of Change, (not to mention a few friends), I can grow many of them in my garden. (I've grown daikon, bok choy, napa, luffas, yard-long beans, shungiku, mizuna, etc. for years), but occasionally, I have to purchase them. When I do have to resort to purchasing (not having a greenhouse yet, I'm still at the mercy of the seasons), I usually go to the Buford Highway Farmers' Market or the Atlanta Farmers' Market (a.k.a. the Hong Kong Supermarket), where I can find anything I want at incredibly low prices.
(This brings me to another of my pet peeves. Ten years ago, my friend, Spence, and I were the only White guys who shopped there -- and I liked it that way. Nowadays, though, the BHFM is thronging with obnoxious, bargain-hunting yuppies.
I'm glad the place is doing a brisk trade -- they've earned it: the selection of merchandise just keeps getting better and better -- but really! When I head into Koreatown or Little Saigon, the last thing I want to see is some fat, wheezing slob of a caucasoid; jabbering away on his cell-phone and bumping into other shoppers, displays, etc. because of his utter lack of zanshin. End rant.)
This week, bitter gourds were a mere $1.59 a pound (not bad, as they're out of season), so I picked up one and took it home. Yesterday, I bought two more and decided to write about them.
To give credit where it's due, I began writing these "weird shit" pieces because of my wife's daughter. I'll readily admit that Elizabeth and I don't get along very well, but during one conversation a year or two ago, she made an excellent point.
We were having dinner at an overpriced eatery in North Carolina, when Mags brought up the cookbook, the first draft of which I've just completed. Elizabeth complained (and rightly so) that many cookbooks list odd ingredients, but fail to describe them, reccomend substitutes, or tell the reader where to obtain them. It was a valid grievance, and one I decided to address by composing these articles.
Without further ado, then:
The bitter gourd (a.k.a. "bitter melon," "wild cucumber," "balsam pear" or "karela"; ku gua in Cantonese, kho qua in Vietnamese) is a highly esteemed food in Southeast Asia. Although native to India, the plant's cultivation gradually spread into Indochina, and finally into China-proper.
A member of the vast Cucubitaceae family (which also includes squash, pumpkins, gourds, melons, chayotes and cucumbers), its botanical name is Momordica charantia. (Note: While related to M. grosvenori -- a.k.a. lo han guo or "Arhat fruit" -- the bitter gourd looks and tastes nothing like it, and is put to very different use.)
And in case the Gentle Reader hadn't guessed, it's aptly named. M. charantia, in its unprepared state, is actually too bitter to eat. Its enticing, cucumber-like appearance notwithstanding (the damned things just look delicious), the raw, un-prepared fruit tastes like quinine -- because it's loaded with the stuff. I suppose this explains its populartity in the malaria-plagued tropics.
To the best of my knowledge, there are two distinct cultivars: the smaller, heavily warted, dark green variety eaten in India, and the larger, smoother, pale green type grown in Southeast Asia (photos forthcoming). In my experience, the smaller, darker Indian variety is far more bitter than its Indochinese relative. Whichever variety one chooses, both need preparation.
In his Encyclopedia of Indian Cooking, Khalid Aziz recommends cutting an inch off the end of the fruit and rubbing the two cut sections together. He mentions that this will generate a sort of foam, thereby extracting much of the bitterness. I tried his method on the lighter, Southeast Asian variety, and found that it didn't work -- there was no foam at all. (The smaller, Indian gourds produced foam aplenty.)
I therefore decided to prepare them in the Vietnamese/Chinese manner. After topping and tailing them, I split them lengthwise, scraped out the seeds and pulp, and then cut them into thin, half-moon slices. I sprinkled a little sea salt into a flat-bottomed glass bowl, put in a layer of gourd slices, salted the tops, and repeated the process. I let the slices stand for half an hour, rinsed the excess salt away, and squeezed out the water. The fruit was still bitter, but tolerably so.
I stir-fried it with sliced lotus root and carrots, and a cup or so of cubed, leftover turkey breast. For a sauce, I used a mixture of cornstarch, water, chicken broth, soy sauce, nuoc mam, sugar, garlic, onion, ginger, lemongrass, Thai chiles, cilantro roots, shrimp paste and kaffir lime leaves. The bitterness was still noticeable, but the other flavors balanced it out very nicely. There were no leftovers...
Moving away from the culinary and into the medicinal, bitter gourd isn't listed in Materia Medica. Lu, however, mentions that it's bitter (an understatement), cooling, and affects the heart, spleen and stomach meridians. (He also awards it a whopping "yin" score of -8). Like most bitter foods, whether in Eastern or Western folk-medicine, it's believed to benefit the liver. Lu also mentions that regular consumption improves eyesight, and that the dry-fried seeds, ground to powder and taken with wine, can cure impotence.
(I've never suffered "dangler-droop," but if television commercials are anything to go by, millions of men do. If one can cure it by eating gourd seeds for a few days, why piss away one's hard-earned shekels on Viagra, Enzyte and all the other "pecker pills" on the market?)
I'll post photos of the fruit (both varieties) as soon as my battery recharges, so stay tuned.
Now that you know what it is and what it does, I'll tackle the matter of where to find bitter gourds. One of my bros' father-in-law managed to grow them from seeds he picked from a store-bought specimen, but I'd imagine he's the exception to the rule. Most catalogs don't offer the seeds, but someone must be producing them domestically -- they're too delicate to travel well. The most reliable way of finding them is checking the produce section of an Asian market, preferably Indian, Thai or Vietnamese.