Last Saturday, the wife and I found ourselves working different shifts. Hers being later (and more hectic, by far) than mine, preparing her a surprise dinner seemed an affectionate (if calculatedly so) gesture on my part.
The menu was simple: General Tso's chicken (he still ain't noticed that it's missin'), Szechuan cucumber relish, jade soup with crab, and plain steamed rice.
None of the aforementioned dishes is especially exotic, and recipes for all are readily available in cookbooks and on the Internet. I mention them for one reason only: The marinade/coating for the General Tso's chicken consists of soy sauce, "yellow" rice wine, salt, white pepper, cornstarch and two egg whites.
This left me with two egg yolks and a quandary. Owing to my near-neurotic obsession with never letting anything go to waste, I simply had to find use for them. Maggie and I batted a few ideas back and forth, and settled on using them for mayonnaise.
With the exception of one incident last year, during which we tried to make wasabi mayonnaise and failed miserably (for some inexplicable reason, the oil and egg yolks refused to emulsify), we've never had any trouble making specialty mayonnaises incorporating such oddball ingredients as minced capers, mashed anchovies, caviar or ikura; ground, smoked salmon, etc. This time, however, I wanted something a little different.
Starting with a stock, "cooking school" recipe for aïoli, I modified it to suit my own tastes. My wife went gaga over it, and I hope you enjoy it, as well.
You'll need:
2 egg yolks
¼ tsp salt
2 cloves garlic, finely minced
1 cup oil of your choice
1 or 2t vinegar, to taste (optional)
2t sugar
½- 1t ground chipotle
¼- ½ t Dijon mustard
Using a mortar and pestle (improvise if necessary), combine garlic and salt, and mash to a paste. In a separate bowl, combine egg yolks, mustard, and a few drops of oil. With an eggbeater or electric cake mixer (lowest setting -- just trust me) slowly whisk until mixture begins to thicken. Add remaining oil in a thin trickle, whisking constantly. When mayonnaise has reached the desired consistency (I like mine on the thick side, but some prefer it thinner); whisk in garlic paste, powdered chipotle, vinegar, and sugar. Add additional salt if necessary. Transfer to a covered container and refrigerate 2-3 hours to allow flavors to blend.
The inclusion of two egg yolks and two cloves of garlic makes for a very creamy consistency and a bold, strong flavor. Should you prefer a milder condiment, increase the amount of oil, or reduce the amount of garlic. The cholesterol-conscious may omit one egg yolk, although the end product will be slightly thinner. Being a cheapskate (and hoping to compensate for the cholesterol in the yolks), I used a 50-50 mix of extra virgin olive oil and canola.
As I'm fond of strongly flavored foods (my Bro, "J-Dawg," won't even hang out with me when I eat tapenade, taratoor b'sade, or certain curries -- the smell drives him up the wall) I use it as a dip crudités. It also makes a wonderful spread for sandwiches (especially cold roast beef), and zesty dressing for salads -- especially potato salad, the essential starchiness of which compensates for the strong garlic flavor and aroma.
Yesterday was Home-Improvement day. My cousin needed a few extra bucks, while we needed some plumbing done. Call it serendipity...
Tearing out and replacing a wall is child's play for Mags & Yours Truly, but we don't do plumbing. I know my limitations, and for anything more complicated than replacing a faucet or toilet, I call the expert -- my cousin. Naturally, we paid him for the service, but he cut us one hell of a deal. Moreover, he's family. This being the case, we also plied him with two meals. My wife and mother made breakfast for him while I was at work, while I took care of dinner, which, on Sundays and holidays, we usually take between midday and 14:00.
As on the day before, it wasn't a fancy meal, but it went over very well with everyone. Two of the items (pico de gallo and tortilla chips) were "stock" comestibles and merit little detailed treatment.
Pico: char, peel, seed and chop two tomatoes and two Serrano chiles. Thinly slice 2-3 large scallions or chop one small, white onion. Mix, and add two minced cloves of garlic, 1-2 tablespoons of minced cilantro (depending on how much you like the stuff), a tablespoon or more of lime juice, and salt to taste. Refrigerate for at least an hour before serving.
Tortilla chips: halve ten or more 6" corn tortillas (don't worry if they're slightly stale -- it makes no difference, as you'll be frying them) and cut each half into thirds. Heat ½" or more of oil to 350 in a skillet or wok. Add tortilla wedges and fry until golden-brown, turning once. Remove with slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Sprinkle with salt, if desired, and keep warm. That's all there is to it.
The next two took some work, and are therefore worth relating in detail. The end products were superb, though, and justified the time and effort. The first, chile con queso, is another "stock" appetizer (i.e., any fool with a pulse can make it), but extra care results in a better tasting dish.
I love chile con queso, but not the way certain benighted souls make it. Microwaving a lump of Velveeta and can of Ro-Tel tomatoes is strictly for slobs, and results in an inferior product. My way takes more time and effort, but I think you'll find that the end justifies the extra work.
2 jalapeño chiles, charred, peeled, seeded and minced.
1 large tomato, charred, peeled, seeded and chopped.
1 small onion, finely chopped
2t butter
½ t salt
dash pepper (optional)
½ cup milk or half-and half
2oz. each Chihuahua, Monterey jack, cheddar and American cheeses (use the real thing, not those disgusting pre-wrapped singles), cubed or shredded.
In a saucepan, melt butter over very low heat. Do not allow to foam or brown. Add onion, increase heat slightly, and sauté until tender and translucent. Add tomato and jalapenos, and cook 5+ minutes, until tomato releases liquid. Reduce heat to lowest setting and add cheeses, stirring constantly. When cheeses begin to melt, add milk, increase heat slightly, and stir until smooth and blended. Serve warm with tortilla chips.
Note: The choice of cheeses is a matter of personal taste. Using Chihuahua alone is more authentic. The addition of cheddar and/or American cheeses is a Tex-Mex practice -- but results in a very flavorful dish. Like most "stock" appetizers, this one readily lends itself to modification and experimentation. Serrano, poblano, or Anaheim chiles, for example, can be used in place of jalapeños. A little chorizo makes a nice addition, as do one or two tablespoons of beer or a teaspoon of tequila. Use your imagination, and let your taste buds be your guides.
The main dish was that most venerable of mainstays, chile con carne. My recipe is guaranteed to induce the dry heaves among purists, as it includes ground beef. The ratio of beef to beans, you'll notice, is an obvious concession to Anglo-Celtic palates. When making a truly authentic batch, the wife and I use cubed beef (we're not picky about the cut) and slow-cook it until it can be shredded with forks. We also soak and cook dried pinto beans the night before, doubling the listed amount. (Margarita considers kidney beans abomination, and an offense in the eyes of the Lord). In this case, though, time was of the essence. Although this is a "quick" recipe, the additional care in preparing the ingredients makes for a better dish. It isn't as good as chili cooked in the old-fashioned way (what is?), but it's much better than store-bought mixes, and infinitely superior to that canned horseshit.
2lbs ground beef, lean
2 onions, chopped
3 ancho chiles
1 mulato chile
1 guajillo or pasilla chile
2 cloves garlic, minced
2t smoked paprika
2t oregano
1T cumin seeds
½ cayenne or more, to taste (optional)
1 can chili beans or plain pintos
1 can diced tomatoes with jalapeños
1 can crushed tomatoes
½ cup beer
salt to taste
Toast anchos, mulatos and guajillos or pasillas in ungreased skillet, over medium heat, until aromatic. Set aside, and toast cumin seeds until fragrant. Remove stems, seeds and veins from chiles, and crumble. In a spice grinder, combine chiles, paprika, cayenne (if desired), oregano and cumin. Reduce to a fine powder.
Lightly grease a Dutch oven or stewpot. Heat to medium, and brown beef, stirring to prevent sticking. When beef is browned, drain, reserving 2T drippings. Return reserved drippings to pot and sauté onions over medium heat until tender and translucent. Reduce heat, add spice powder, and cook until aromatic, stirring constantly. If necessary, add additional drippings to prevent sticking and burning. When onions are well coated, add beef and tomatoes. Stir until thoroughly mixed.
Heat to boiling, and stir in beans and beer. Reduce heat, and simmer, covered, 45 minutes.
Enjoy.